The creation of batik is a three-stage process of waxing, dyeing and de-waxing ie removing the wax. There are also several sub-processes like preparing the cloth, tracing the designs, stretching the cloth on to the frame, waxing the area of the cloth that does not need dyeing, preparing the dye, dipping the cloth into the dye, boiling the cloth to remove the wax and washing the cloth with soap.
Batik is created in several ways
In the splash method, the wax is splashed or poured on the cloth.
The screen-printing method involves a stencil.
The hand-painting one is used by a Kalamkar-pen.
The scratch and starch resist are the other methods.
Batik making means a process of dying where the patterns are carefully drawn on the fabric with molten beeswax applied from a little copper cup with a fine spout called as the “tjanting” alias teapot. And then the same is dipped in the dye pot. Knowing how to use the wax is of prime importance. The ideal mixture for batik wax is 30 percent beeswax and 70 percent paraffin wax (but these days mostly paraffin wax is used as it is easily available and less costly). A stiffer wax made of rosin and paraffin mixed with varnish gums are used for stamping the patterns. It is the skillful cracking that is important. While applying, the wax should not be overheated or it will catch fire. Correct knowledge of colors is also important.
Clothes and Patterns
The cloth used should be strong enough to bear the heat and wax. Cambric, Poplin, Cotton , and Coils are used besides pure silk. Synthetic fabrics should not be used as they cannot sustain heat. For repetitive designs, in order to save time the wax is applied by metal die or a block made by inserting thin strips of sheet brass in a wooden frame so that the edges of the brass form the desired design pattern. These blocks having a handle are covered with a cloth and are dipped in the molten wax and the excess wax is removed by pressing it against a pad which is kept warm by keeping it near fire of the melting pot. The pattern is thus printed on the cloth instead of being poured on from a small cup out of a spout.
The wax resist is often combined with block printing. It is easy to apply wax through a stencil either with a brush or using a tjanting. To get the reverse effect by cutting out the pattern on a stiff cardboard or thin metal and then using it as a template, pouring and painting the wax around it leaving the pattern in the original cloth to be dyed later.
source:
Comments